A lot of people think of brush seals as a draught excluder for doors. They are often installed on the bottom of the door as a DIY fix for slowing down cold air currents. At Thermawood, when we retrofit double glaze timber windows , we include draught seals in the process as standard. Using a rubber seal — which offers both draught and acoustic benefits — we can dramatically reduce draughts while also boosting the acoustic performance of your windows.
Even better, we machine the seals directly into the frame or sash with our special tooling so they become a permanent part of the window. Even with century-old draughty wooden windows that you thought were hopeless, you can still reduce draughts dramatically with the right seals in the right places.
With sash window seals, brush excluders can help when you have zero compression. While we use rubber seals for casement windows, when you have sliding movement, we may also use sash window brushes. So what we do is, we evaluate the unique needs of the window to determine how best to address any gaps that are causing the draughts. This is especially true with older timber windows, where there may be uneven surfaces or you have to be really careful with the type of draught excluder you use so the window will still function properly.
With most windows, we can machine in the silicone seals, effectively draught proofing while creating a seamless look. When we use brush seals, we use a special mohair brush seal with a fin seal. The mohair does an excellent job of inhibiting draughts. This is done when using rubber fin type of draught proofing. When using cheaper self-adhesive draught proofing strips, make sure to first clean up the surface for best results.
Once you have these in place and you have cleaned the frames, measure the strips whilst putting them against the frames and cut them with the scissors once you reach the correct length for each side. When this is done, you need to peel out the backing attached to the proofing in order to reveal the adhesive and then press it firmly into its place, working your way up the entire frame.
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These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. This can be quite complicated work and does carry some risk of further damage if not executed by a professional — particularly with very old frames.
As such, we always recommend that you seek help from experienced draught proofing and window fitting professionals. The biggest problem with old sash windows is draughts. As neglected timbers have shrunk over the years, gaps will have appeared and winter winds will roar through them into your house.
But there are plenty of DIY fixes you can apply to block out the draughts. The simplest sash window draught-proofing solution is to fix the window shut and fill the gaps with flexible filler. Check the putty around each pane too. Where it is loose, dig it out and reseal with fresh putty. A more practical DIY draught-proofing option is to use flexible draught excluder strips, which you just roll out and push into the gaps. Adhesive sealer strip on the bottom and top frames will help the draught-proofing too.
If you have a very high level of DIY skill, you can rout out the rebates and re-glaze the window with double-glazed panes. Another drawback with DIY draught-proofing is that you can over-seal your windows. Make your windows completely air-tight and you will create the perfect environment for damp and mould to take hold.
Building regulations require a degree of ventilation in every room, especially if the room contains gas appliances like cookers or fires. A professional sash window restoration service uses 8. A professional window restorer will also rebalance the weights and replace the sash cords, upgrade the window furniture and locks and plane the sashes where necessary to improve the fit.
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